Match of the week

Chicken with 40 cloves of garlic and Thierry Puzelat Pinot Noir

Chicken with 40 cloves of garlic and Thierry Puzelat Pinot Noir

Last week’s highlight was a trip to the newly opened downstairs restaurant at Terroirs, a restaurant of which regular readers will know I’m a huge fan (along with the rest of the UK’s wine-writing fraternity).

I have to confess we ate a disgraceful amount including grilled squid with piment d’Espelette, langoustines and aioli, eggs ‘en meurette’, Middle White pork ‘rillons’ with a mustardy lentil salad and crème caramel but the highlight was a whole roast Landaise chicken cooked with 40 cloves of garlic. (No, I didn’t count them but that’s how the dish was billed. There were 30 at least, that’s for sure which sounds terrifyingly garlicky but in fact the effect is quite mild and sweet.)

To partner it we had a bottle of Thierry Puzelat PN ‘Les Montils’. Puzelat who is based in the Loire is one of the high priests of natural winemaking so this was no ordinary Loire red but funky and slightly medicinal: the kind of wine you’re not sure you really like at first sip but which grows on you as it opens up - particularly with a plateful of chicken, garlic and duck fat roasties.

To tell the truth almost any Pinot Noir would have worked with this dish but they wouldn’t have been half as thought-provoking . . .

7 hour leg of lamb with Cot (Malbec)

7 hour leg of lamb with Cot (Malbec)

When you’re roasting lamb you’re almost spoilt for choice. Almost any red you enjoy will go with this most wine-friendly of dishes but my pick of Thierry Puzelat’s quirky KO In Cot we Trust (2005) proved a winner

Both wine and lamb were bargains - the lamb snapped up by my husband at our local branch of Somerfield for just £9.49 (you’d be lucky if you got a couple of lamb shanks for that these days), the wine (originally £12.99) on a 25% off promotion in Waitrose earlier this year, though I’m not sure whether they still stock it*

We simply made a few cuts in the lamb and inserted slivers of garlic and a few rosemary leaves, smothered it with olive oil and put it in the hot oven of the AGA until it got going (about 20 minutes) then transferred it to the low oven and left it for the best part of the afternoon - about 7 1/2 hours in total. A sliced onion and a glass of red wine (and one of water) got added along the way. The result was wonderfully savoury, far more complex than one has any right to expect from supermarket meat and a perfect match for this luxuriant off-the-wall ‘natural’ wine with its dark, damsony fruit.

There’s an interesting article about Puzelat here if you want to know more.

* Green and Blue in London sells it for £14.40. Their recommended matches are venison, hare, game pie or sweetbreads.

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